Jorge Ordóñez & Co. - Botani Moscatel Old Vines 2017
Price: $18.25
Sale Price: $8.99
| Producer | Jorge Ordóñez & Co. |
| Country | Spain |
| Region | Spain |
| Subregion | Malaga |
| Varietal | Muscat of Alexandria |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Sku | 03382 |
Jorge Ordóñez & Co. Description
History
The history of viticulture in Málaga stretches back to the Bronze age, when 3,000 years ago Phoenician
traders transplanted Muscat of Alexandria from Egypt to Spain. Primary source records exist from 600BC,
when the Greeks controlled this area, that reference local viticulture. The Romans expanded viticulture in
Malaga, and fermentation vats from Roman times have been discovered across the province. In the 11th
century, an Arab historical geographer wrote about “the mountains covered with vines, uninterrupted as
far as Mt. Xolar, results in one of the most beautiful views in the world.” Although production of wine was
originally banned under Moorish rule, after realizing the economic importance of wine production and
tasting the wines, the rulers claimed the alcoholic drink was a medicine, and consumed it as such.
The industry continued to grow through the centuries, and by the beginning of the 1800’s, the wines of
Malaga had become so famous that counterfeiting fraud was common. The region was also known for the
export of raisins, which are still considered to be some of the best in the world. The phylloxera entered
Spain through the wine trade with the UK and was first discovered in a vineyard known as La Indiana, just
20 km from Malaga. At the time of the infestation vineyard cultivation had reached 100,000 Ha. (240,000
acres), double the size of present day Rioja. The Phylloxera infestation caused an economic disaster from
which Malaga has yet to fully recover. In the first 10 years of the disease Malaga lost 50% of its population
and today vineyard cultivation is a small fraction of what it once was.
Vineyard
Muscat of Alexandria is the oldest clone worldwide of the Muscat varietal. It is the original Muscat, which
was cultivated extensively around Alexandria, Egypt and one of the world’s only remaining “ancient”
(genetically uncrossed) grape varieties. The vineyards of Málaga are perhaps the most extreme and
dangerous in Europe, due to the decomposed slate soils, and inclines of up to 70˚. The vast majority of
steep vineyards in Europe have terraces or are mechanized in some way to protect workers and assist
with harvest. The vineyards in Málaga have remained untouched. All pruning and harvesting is done by
hand, and mules carry six 15kg boxes up the slopes at a time. A heroic style of viticulture.
The soils are extremely harsh and poor, characterized by decomposed schist (slate intermixed with quartz.)
These soils are extremely slippery and make vineyard work very dangerous as the pieces of slate are
extremely sharp. These soils and the 700M altitudes maintain the natural acidity of the grapes in spite of
Málaga’s hot conditions.
Winemaking
The extremely low yielding vines of Moscatel are painstakingly hand harvested starting on the 1st of August,
making this the earliest harvest in mainland Europe. This early harvest ensures the proper balance of sugar
and acid for an elegant dry white wine. The bunches are 50% destemmed, 50% whole cluster pressed.
The wine ferments with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, and is aged sur lie for six to eight months to add
a sense of depth and complexity to the wine, which complements the beautiful aromatics.
James Suckling: 90 Points
Very attractive, grapey dry muscat with good structure as well as lively fruit. Nice length with discreet tannins supporting the finish nicely. Drink now or hold.
Wine Advocate
This expressive white offers floral, lychee and tangerine flavors in a round, plush texture that hint at sweetness, but gain energy from fresh citrusy acidity that keeps the finish juicy and clean. Drink now.
–TM
